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When compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.